Riding the waves

Riding through the crescent of the wave
 
the mighty roar of the surf deafens me.
 
Obliterating my senses, of reason,
 
just looking for a moment to be free
 
 
White frothy foam swirls overhead,
 
abandoned boards of others abound.
 
One lost ride would be near suicide
 
causing major problems to all.
 
 
The ebb and flow of the tide
 
pushes and pulls against my will.
 
Yet I glide towards the distant shoreline,
 
speeding up as nearer the approach
 
 
Exhilaration, speed spilt through my veins.
 
Heart pounding, was sure all could hear,
 
I trembled at the resounding realisation
 
of how foolish I might have been.
 
 
Already running up the beach
 
to catch a glimpse of the next great wave.
 
Senseless use of a living spirit
 
yet will do so, time and time again